As a length of fabric worn around the neck, the scarf has a long history, although its usage has varied with the time and place, some types being known by different names. Scarves reputedly originated in Ancient Rome, when a linen sudarium or ‘sweat cloth’, wound around the neck or knotted onto a belt, was used by men to mop the perspiration from their neck and face. Long scarves or stoles were subsequently adopted by ladies, their versatile, draping qualities ensuring that they remained fashionable down the centuries. By the 1600s Croatian mercenaries were wearing cotton scarves (silk for officers); eventually gaining favour throughout Europe, this male accessory was called a ‘cravat’, after Croatian kravata .

Early scarves were made from linen, cotton or silk, although the term ‘muffler’ was first recorded in the 1530s as a warm wrap (of unspecified material) for the throat. During the Victorian era soft woollen or fur scarves began to be worn in the cold weather, their styling well-suited to the new outdoor coats and jackets coming into vogue from the mid-1800s onwards. Woven woollen material was customary for men’s scarves, while ladies might wear a fur neck wrap or scarf: once a luxury commodity, fur was becoming more affordable by the 1880s and 1890s and was fashionable for winter accessories.

Knitwear began to feature significantly in dress during the early 20th century, when comfortable knitted garments became widely adopted for sportswear. Before advanced winter skiwear developed, a woollen jersey and scarf were major elements of the skier’s and skater’s outfit. During World War One, women knitted warm mufflers, socks and balaclavas for the troops and afterwards knitwear became firmly established in the modern wardrobe. Hand-knitting was widely practised and for decades colourful knitted hats, scarves and gloves were worn by men, women and children. Striped scarves became especially popular, as warm accessories and sometimes to express affiliation with an organisation, particular colour combinations denoting the wearer’s college, school or football team.