Swimwear originated in the 1700s when sea bathing became a new pursuit. The costumes worn at early resorts such as Scarborough and Brighton mirrored those used for the thermal baths at Bath and resembled undergarments. Initially some men bathed naked, following time-honoured tradition, but most wore linen drawers and, as modesty grew increasingly important, added a jacket-like ‘waistcoat’. Women typically donned a voluminous shift of stout linen or flannel, the hems sometimes weighted down. Nudity was prohibited on most public Victorian beaches and at first men wore short trunks, while female attire followed fashion. Illustrations from the 1860s depict heavy woollen flannel or serge ‘paletot’ ladies’ bathing dresses with fitted bodices and full skirts, echoing contemporary crinoline gowns but worn knee-length, with bloomer-style ‘Turkish’ trousers. Linen caps protected the head from the cold, while sunhats shaded delicate faces. Victorian swimwear advanced slowly, although gradually female garments became briefer, bloomers rising to calf-length and sleeves growing shorter. Meanwhile, by the late-1800s male swimsuits usually incorporated a sleeved chest section, for to bare the chest was now considered unseemly. These close-fitting woollen leotard-like suits were suited to energetic male swimming, whereas most ladies bobbed around genteelly in the sea.

By the Edwardian era, mixed bathing was more common and it became acceptable to traverse the beach in swimwear. Women’s cumbersome ensembles shrank further, with bloomers often knee-length and short tunics featuring fashionable sailor-style collars. Modesty remained paramount, but the early 1900s witnessed a surge in athletic sports and more females entered competitive swimming. Australian swimmer Annette Kellerman, defying rigid dress codes, popularised the daring unitard, a combination-style, figure-hugging one-piece suit and in the 1912 Olympics female swimmers wore these streamlined costumes with short legs and cap sleeves. Many ordinary women still favoured more concealing, layered outfits, although tunics grew even briefer and drawers became thigh-length shorts. As reservations relaxed further, stretchy jersey fabric costumes were worn during the 1920s. By 1930 suntans were fashionable and accordingly modern swimwear exposed more flesh, female costumes now displaying low backs, cut-away sides, narrow straps or halter-necklines and high legs. Finally, in the 1940s many men abandoned the traditional costume and adopted tailored trunks.

In the print edition
Read Jayne Shrimpton’s guide to unusual Victorian photos in Issue 4 of Discover Your Ancestors, out in newsagents now or available online at discoveryourancestors.co.uk