history in the details: sandals

history in the details: sandals

Jayne Shrimpton hot-foots it through a history of these shoes

Jayne Shrimpton, Professional dress historian and picture specialist

Jayne Shrimpton

Professional dress historian and picture specialist


Although, like many dress items, the definition of sandals is indistinct, they are generally perceived as outdoor footwear comprising a sole held to the foot by straps or bands passing over the instep and sometimes around the ankle.

Made of leather, rope, leaves and rushes, wood, rubber and woven fabric, according to time and place, a key feature of sandals throughout history is that they leave much of the foot exposed. They are therefore most comfortable and practical in hot climates and during warm seasons, although they have also been adopted as fashion accessories.

Basic sandals were used in primitive societies, the earliest surviving examples dating from c8500-7200 BC discovered in 1938 in Fort Rock Cave, central Oregon, USA. The great civilisations of Africa, the Middle East and Mediterranean wore sandals, including the ancient Egyptians who favoured sandals fashioned from palm leaves and papyrus.

The term ‘sandal’ derives from Greek sandalon and the ancient Greeks distinguished between baxeae made of willow leaves, twigs, or fibres worn by comic actors and philosophers and the cothurnus, a boot-style sandal covering the lower leg, associated with actors, horsemen, hunters and, generally, men of rank and authority. Sandals were worn throughout much of the Roman Empire among soldiers, gladiators and charioteers and the wider toga- and tunic-wearing civilian populace.

In cooler regions sandals were less significant, although they entered fashion in the early-1800s when the vogue for neo-classical dress inspired the adoption of light pumps tied around the foot with ribbons – footwear termed ‘Grecian sandals’ by the Regency fashion press. Soft Victorian shoes and slippers, especially heel-less or novelty styles with insteps cut out in bands were sometimes termed ‘sandals’, although they bore little resemblance to the pioneering leather sandals adopted by free-thinkers Edward Carpenter, August John and others moving in early-1900s Bohemian circles. Children first wore T-bar sandals around this time, but only during the 1930s, when shorter hemlines, shorts and bare legs were widely accepted, did open-toed sandals become a regular feature of summer dress.

Intriguing article?

Subscribe to our newsletter, filled with more captivating articles, expert tips, and special offers.

Le Costume Historique
Plate from Le Costume Historique by Auguste Racinet, 1888. Sandals were widely worn throughout the classical world and are perhaps today especially associated with the ancient Greeks and Romans. From early on, many styles of sandal evolved, some formed with straps or ties extending up the leg, as seen in this illustration of diverse Roman warriors
Heideloff’s Gallery of Fashion, November 1801
Fashion plate from Heideloff’s Gallery of Fashion, November 1801. In the early-1800s the neo-classical vogue inspired soft pumps strapped over the instep and ankle, called ‘sandals’ and worn regardless of the time of year
Magazine advert for wedge and sling-back sandals, late 1940s
Magazine advert for wedge and sling-back sandals, late 1940s. After WW2, during which footwear was necessarily sensible and hard-wearing, there was a welcome revival of lighter frivolous styles, including white sandals, fashionable for summer weekends and holidays

Discover Your Ancestors Periodical is published by Discover Your Ancestors Publishing, UK. All rights in the material belong to Discover Your Ancestors Publishing and may not be reproduced, whether in whole or in part, without their prior written consent. The publisher makes every effort to ensure the magazine's contents are correct. All articles are copyright© of Discover Your Ancestors Publishing and unauthorised reproduction is forbidden. Please refer to full Terms and Conditions at www.discoveryourancestors.co.uk. The editors and publishers of this publication give no warranties,
guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised.