Like trousers, covered in the March issue, breeches are an outer bifurcated garment. In classical Rome the word bracchae described the shapeless trouser-like leg coverings worn by northern European ethnic groups, while medieval males wore braies – shortened trousers, knee-length drawers or breeches – under the tunic. The word ‘breeches’ derives from Middle English breech and Old English bre-c or bre’c – terms for various leg-coverings.

Throughout the 16th century, wide padded trunk hose covering the hips and thighs was teamed with lower fitted hose or stockings, but by the late-1500s longer, more comfortable breeches were evolving. ‘Venetians’ were wide at the waist and tapered to around knee-level, while ‘galligaskins’ or ‘slops’ were more voluminous breeches worn, for example, by seamen. These styles became the dominant fashion in the 17th century, with ribbon loops or lace ruffles filling the gap between the lower edge of the breeches and the boot top. From mid-century short, wide ‘petticoat’ breeches were in vogue and after c1660 were no longer attached to, or suspended from the doublet, but fastened around the waist. By 1700 breeches were generally more streamlined, secured below the knee and formed an essential component of the new male three-piece suit comprising coat, waistcoat and breeches.

Throughout the 18th century breeches retained their basic form, although as coats and waistcoats grew more progressively more slender, so they narrowed in style. Traditionally a buttoned fly closed the centre front but for a smoother fit over the abdomen, from c1730 breeches often featured a ‘fall’, a square flap about 5-8 inches wide that buttoned to the waistband, while knee bands fastened with buckles, buttons or ties. Fine silk and velvet breeches were worn in high society and woollen cloth breeches by the masses. Outdoor labourers favoured hardwearing buckskin breeches, often left open at the knee for easier movement. During the 1790s breeches gave way in fashionable circles to longer skin-tight pantaloons and, later trousers. Yet older, conservative men and farm workers wore breeches until well into the 19th century and they also continued for country and sporting wear.