First-class Appearance

First-class Appearance

Jayne Shrimpton investigates the uniforms our postal worker ancestors might have worn

Jayne Shrimpton, Professional dress historian and picture specialist

Jayne Shrimpton

Professional dress historian and picture specialist


Ever since Georgian mail coaches thundered along turnpike roads and letter-carriers knocked on doors, postal workers have been distinguished by their blue and scarlet uniforms. Some of the earliest couriers wore embroidered blue or red livery suits and when servants of the British Postal Service received their first official issue of regulation clothing in the late-1700s, the chosen colour was red – the royal colour of England – in honour of the royal origins of the postal system.

scene from The Costume of Great Britain by W H Pyne
1. In this scene from The Costume of Great Britain by W H Pyne (1805) the driver and guard of the London-Worcester mail coach wear postal uniforms resembling those introduced in the late-1700s: coats of scarlet woollen cloth faced with blue linings, collars and cuffs, accessorised with black beaver hats

Soon after the introduction of horse-drawn mail coaches in 1784, London mail coach guards and drivers were issued with a scarlet cloth coat faced with blue lapels and lining, blue waistcoat and black felted beaver fur hat. The guard, responsible for protecting both the mail and any passengers travelling in the coach, carried a cutlass, blunderbuss and brace of pistols, as well as a horn or bugle to warn other road users and toll-keepers of the fast-approaching vehicle.

London letter-carrier
2. London letter-carriers were issued with their first standardised garments in 1793, receiving blue-faced scarlet coats and black beaver hats; they had to provide their own buff breeches or, later, fashionable trousers. These uniforms were also carefully recorded by W H Pyne in his collected sketches of working people, Costume of Great Britain (1805)

London letter-carriers making house-to-house calls gained smart uniforms in 1793, like those of the mail coach teams: fashionably-styled scarlet coats with blue lapels and cuffs, the coat bearing brass buttons inscribed with the wearer’s unique number. They also received waistcoats and hats but had to supply their own breeches and, later, trousers. Despite the early formation of a recognisable London postal uniform, however, the wider adoption of standardised garments was slow: only in the 1830s did many provincial letter-carriers receive uniforms, and regional variations persisted.

bellmen
3. Before the pre-paid penny post, ‘bellmen’ walked the streets in the late afternoon, ringing a bell and collecting letters ready for the mail coach. They, too, were identified by their blue-collared scarlet coats, a cutaway tail coat usual for postal workers between the 1810s and mid-1850s, as illustrated in W H Pyne’s The World in Miniature (1827)

During the Victorian era the postman’s uniform gradually shed its more picturesque, colourful elements, reflecting developments in other civilian (and military) uniforms,. Firstly, in c1855 a scarlet full-skirted frock coat replaced the old-fashioned tail coat, the carrier’s number now worn on the collar, while the traditional beaver hat gave way to a glazed top hat modelled on French postmen’s headwear. Waterproof capes were also issued to protect the coat, but nonetheless bright red clothing became quickly blackened in industrial cities. So, in 1861 the original colours were reversed, a functional dark blue frock coat now faced with scarlet collar and cuffs and the initials GPO being embroidered on the collar, above the wearer’s number. Scarlet piping also edged the matching blue waistcoat and the outside seam of the blue winter and grey summer trousers, while from 1862 a blue cloth-covered shako cap with a straight glazed peak replaced the unpopular glazed hat. Finally, in 1868 a military-style dark blue tunic superseded the frock coat and waistcoat, this smart, functional uniform continuing until c1910.

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The Postman’s Knock
4. This sheet music cover for the popular Victorian song ‘The Postman’s Knock’, c1855 shows the new full-skirted scarlet frock coat that replaced the traditional tail coat, along with glazed top hat. Within a few years, in 1861, the colours would be reversed, the coat becoming tailored in more functional dark blue with red piping

By the early-1900s the Post Office was one of the largest employers world-wide and took its uniforms seriously. In 1910 the Committee on Uniforms declared six grades of ranked workers including post office staff, postmen and women and telegram messengers entitled to specific uniforms, thereby ending any remaining regional distinctions. Simultaneously the tunic was phased out and replaced by a modern lounge-style jacket with reveres, the red collar discontinued but red piping retained. Eventually adopted countrywide, this uniform style, along with a modern peaked cap, continued until the late-20th century.

dark blue tunic and trousers worn with military-style shako cap with glazed peak, from the 1860s until c1910
5. This partially-tinted, highly-posed postcard photograph, early-1900s, demonstrates the dark blue tunic and trousers worn with military-style shako cap with glazed peak, from the 1860s until c1910. Not all postmen dressed identically, however, and regional variations persisted until the Committee on Uniforms standardised regulation uniforms for specific grades of employee

Despite female employment since the 1700s, women’s postal uniforms only developed in 1894: a waterproof cape and tailored skirt. During the Great War when the GPO employed many more females, a full uniform was issued comprising navy blue serge calf-length skirt, double-breasted coat or fitted jacket and peaked cap or wide-brimmed felt hat. Post women also received a police whistle for emergencies and stout boots for their rounds, described by one wearer as “of a weight and of a fearsome rigidity that the foot accustomed to lighter shoes cannot easily endure”. Further developments occurred during the Second World War when slouch hats and practical trousers became comfortable modern alternatives for women.

post woman’s uniform comprised a navy jacket or winter coat with calf-length serge skirt and felt hat or peaked cap
6. During WW1 Black Cat cigarettes issued a set of collectible cards picturing women carrying out many essential jobs in place of male workers who were away serving with the armed forces. By 1915, the post woman’s uniform comprised a navy jacket or winter coat with calf-length serge skirt and felt hat or peaked cap
post women had the option of wearing modern, comfortable navy trousers and a stylish slouch hat, their garments all edged in distinctive red piping
7. In WW2 women played a particularly important role in the postal service again. From 1941, besides the conventional navy skirt and traditional felt hat, post women had the option of wearing modern, comfortable navy trousers and a stylish slouch hat, their garments all edged in distinctive red piping

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