History in the details: Bodices

History in the details: Bodices

A brief history by costume and picture expert Jayne Shrimpton

Jayne Shrimpton, Professional dress historian and picture specialist

Jayne Shrimpton

Professional dress historian and picture specialist


Historically the part of female dress clothing the torso from neck to waist was called a ‘body’ although it was united with the skirt until the mid-16th century, when body and skirt became separated. By the 1560s the plural term ‘bodys’, or bodice, was in use, as the fitted Elizabethan garment comprised a ‘pair of bodys’ joined together. One bodice style was figure-hugging with a short point to the waist and a side-fastening; the other was high-necked with a front-fastening, both variants fastening with hooks and eyes. Bodices had sleeves attached and were lined and often boned, or worn over stiffened under-bodices and/or rigid stays (later corsets), to give support and produce the fashionable silhouette.

Over the centuries, bodices altered frequently, reflecting new stylistic trends and, often, a desire to distort the natural body shape: for example, between the 1580s and early 1600s excessively elongated bodices were created with a separate inverted triangle of stiffened material called a stomacher, pinned or tied between the centre-front bodice edges. Again in the later 1600s and intermittently during the 1700s pointed bodices using stomachers or other construction aids were fashionable, although sometimes plainer, more natural styles developed and were more easily sewn to the skirt. Between the 1790s and 1810s, bodices were very short, expressing the prevailing neo-classical vogue for a high waistline. In general, bodices featured the lowest décolletage for evening wear and higher, concealing necklines by day, or a low-necked bodice might be modestly accessorised with a chemisette (under-blouse) or covered by a neckerchief.

Intriguing article?

Subscribe to our newsletter, filled with more captivating articles, expert tips, and special offers.

While affluent ancestors had bodices and co-ordinating skirts professionally fashioned from costly silks and velvets, ordinary women used more practical woollen, linen and cotton materials, many hand-sewing their clothes or, by the later 1800s, perhaps using a domestic sewing machine. The smartest effect was achieved with a matching bodice and skirt, whether sewn together or worn separately as an integrated set, although contrasting bodices and skirts could be alternated to create different outfits. The formal bodice remained an important garment into the Edwardian era and we might still refer to the bodice section of a dress, but as the 20th century advanced modern fashion favoured blouses, sweaters and casual separates.

 Lady Arabella Stuart
This engraving of Lady Arabella Stuart based on a portrait from the 1590s demonstrates the exaggerated elongated bodice of the late-Elizabethan era
This detail from Taste A-La-Mode, 1745, a humorous hand-coloured engraving after L P Boitard, shows two styles of Georgian pointed stomacher bodice
This detail from Taste A-La-Mode, 1745, a humorous hand-coloured engraving after L P Boitard, shows two styles of Georgian pointed stomacher bodice
Victorian bodices and other clothes were often home-sewn, as seen from this advertisement for a cut-out paper pattern for the so-called Eugénie bodice, c1891-93
Victorian bodices and other clothes were often home-sewn, as seen from this advertisement for a cut-out paper pattern for the so-called Eugénie bodice, c1891-93

Discover Your Ancestors Periodical is published by Discover Your Ancestors Publishing, UK. All rights in the material belong to Discover Your Ancestors Publishing and may not be reproduced, whether in whole or in part, without their prior written consent. The publisher makes every effort to ensure the magazine's contents are correct. All articles are copyright© of Discover Your Ancestors Publishing and unauthorised reproduction is forbidden. Please refer to full Terms and Conditions at www.discoveryourancestors.co.uk. The editors and publishers of this publication give no warranties,
guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised.