Rings are among the items of sentimental jewellery most often passed down the generations and in many families inherited rings are especially intimate mementoes. Finger rings have been worn since time immemorial, for decorative effect and as powerful love tokens, the ring’s circular shape expressing eternity, the central hole representing the future.
Many rings have signified betrothal and marriage, with wedding rings reportedly dating back to ancient Egypt. More material evidence survives from medieval era onwards, while depictions of elaborate rings in Tudor dynastic betrothal portraits reflect the practice. Historically, a formal betrothal entailed the presentation of a ring from the prospective bridegroom to his intended, expressing under Roman law his promise to complete the bargain. In elite circles a diamond ring might be given to the fiancée, a plain ‘keeper’ or guard ring often worn on top until the marriage took place, securing the valuable ring underneath. For centuries only the social elite could afford rings ornately hand-crafted or set with precious stones. Traditionally most women wore a simple gold wedding band, especially after the mid 1800s when gold became widely available. Advancing Victorian mass production also brought standardised gold jewellery within the means of ordinary people, although other metals have also been used, including silver and platinum. If a poorer couple were unable to buy a wedding ring then one might be borrowed for the church ceremony.
Decorative engagement rings grew more popular in the later 1800s and early-1900s. Following the discovery of South African diamonds in 1867, diamonds grew fashionable internationally, lowering in price and becoming much-admired by the rising middle classes. By the late-Victorian and Edwardian eras more of our ancestors could afford gold engagement rings set with diamonds or other precious gemstones – glittering ornaments and desirable fashion accessories. Diamonds, symbolising true love, have been long-standing favourites, along with sapphires representing fidelity. Some brides-to-be have favoured their own birthstone or the gemstone associated with the month of their engagement or forthcoming marriage. Symbolic rings, including eternity rings, might combine different coloured stones: these sometimes spelled a romantic message such as DEAR (Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby) or REGARD (Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond). Men do not always wear wedding rings, even today, although some began to wear gold bands or signet rings demonstrating marriage during the First World War. The trend for male wedding rings became more established during and after the Second World War.
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